"Gateway to the Northern Flinders Ranges" apparently. We stopped here because it's on Ma & Pa's schedule that we are now copying. Originally we planned for three nights but ended up staying five. It's a 55km drive to Wilpena Pound and some spectacular mountains with some excellent walks. We did the hardest (St Mary Peak), it's more of a scramble at the end than a walk, very hard but very enjoyable.

Accommodation - Hawker Caravan Park. Nice, empty, we got plot 8 nearest the toilet block so it was like having an on-suite plot. The bloke who runs it is a miserable git, I got a half hour lecture on his problems with the water company and the quality of it just for asking if I could wash the mud off the van. He also threw us out of the TV room at 10pm on the night of England's match against Denmark because "rules is rules" and he doesn't follow soccer. The water is foul though I'll give him that, you don't notice it at first because it strips your taste buds. Once they've recovered you can taste the salt, it's like weak sea water, you have to drink rain water (after you've strained the leaves and bird poo) or beer.

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